Prologue:
Before I go into the actual post on Crete, here's a little background behind the nature of my travels. It is customary for the hub and I to take a couple trip annually. We can only do so with the blessings of my parents as they would have to help with the kids for about a week or two. Not an easy task at all so I am truly grateful. Why the insistence on the couple trip? For those of you out there who are grappling with the changes of parenthood or transitioning through a different type of couple relationship, please read on. It is not just about relaxing without the kids as most people would think so. You will get the 'noble' mums telling you that it is terrible to do that to your kids and parents. Cut them out! The deeper reasons behind the couple trip are:
- It is a dedicated time to rebuild connections with your spouse. Most often than not, the children do require the parents' dedication when they are around. Hence, the quality of time spent with your spouse may not be ideal so this is the time to refocus on each other (not just as your children's dad or mum). Have undisturbed, deep conversations, discuss common interests, discover new things about each other and connect previous experiences with new ones
- Its is important to do fun or thrilling things together. Relationships do need some catalysts once in a while. Many articles talk about how emotions deepen when couples laugh, have fun or try a thrilling activity together. The emotional impact of having a variety of shared positive experiences is huge. Hence, travelling once a year without the kids do provide an opportunity to go off the beaten track together - as a couple.
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Crete - Greece's Largest Island
Crete is Greece's largest island and is located on the southern side of the Aegean Sea. Not as popular as Santorini as a common tourist destination but certainly hold her own credit for that island charm. I love the unspoilt terrain, beautiful beaches and lovely Cretan cuisine. As Crete is a large island, it is important to rent a car to get around the island. I would recommend a higher CC car. The sandy roads are not easy to manoeuvre if the car is not powerful enough. Moreover, some roads are rather narrow, especially in the traditional towns. Best time to visit the island would be the period of August and September but be warned, it will be packed. If you are going in summer, pack the usual summer gear and LOTS of sunblock. Temperatures can get as high as 39 degrees Celsius, and on clear days, the sun will be right smacked on your face. Be prepared to come back 5 shades darker.
West Crete
I started exploring Crete from the West. One of the highlights of West Crete is Elafonisi Beach, located southwest of Crete. Known for its pink coral sand, the beach looks pristine in the sun. The water is crystal clear and you can see small fishes swimming in the lagoon areas as you wade in the water. A rather unspoilt area, Elafonisi spans over a large area with different areas for beach-goers to chillax on rented sunbeds (8 euros for 2 sunbeds for the whole day). My observation is that the people are not early-risers here so if you reach about 9-10am, you could still pick your preferred spot. Anything later, just make do.
The town to visit in West Crete is the Chania Old Town and Harbour. It is a charming old town where there's a local produce market, shops strewn along both sides of the sidewalks and romantic restaurants along the harbour - most suited to unwind over dinner and drinks while you watch the sunset. One roof top bar/restaurant that I would recommend is Pallas. Pallas is a café-bar-restaurant that opens from 8am to 4am! Make a reservation to get a seat on the rooftop to enjoy a romantic dinner with a view. Though it is fine dining, the prices are really reasonable with generous portions.
What is a holiday to Greece without a visit to an archaeological site? Trust me, after a few sites, you kind of feel they are all about the same (at least for me). The Ancient Aptera is actually my favourite archi site for this trip. It is located in West Crete and easily located after an uphill drive. The site is well known for a two-part temple from the 5th century BC and an ancient theatre with acoustic effects. I was so fascinated by the acoustic effects produced by zero technology. Basically, you stand in the middle of the theatre. As you sing, you can hear your own voice amplified back at you, all without any amplifier, microphone or sound system. It sounded like I had headsets on. Super surround sound.
Another marvel of West Crete is the iconic white chapel. Ever admired those Instagram-worthy pictures of a white chapel on blue waves and rocky islets? I always imagined myself in a wedding gown in one of those. The Chapel of Agios Nikolaos in Georgioupolis is one place you need your camera fully charged. This is the place to create your Instagram moment. Come dressed in a white flowy dress and nicely braided hair and you are all set. Unfortunately, I was not prepared at all, with only flip flops, shorts and singlets. So much for Instagramming. If you are game for a little adventure, you can attempt to reach the chapel by challenging the rocky islet and crashing waves. Well, I tried but only managed to cross the halfway mark and had to make a retreat as I was overwhelmed by the crashing waves. Just round the corner of this beachside town is a lovely restaurant perched at the edge of the bay, giving diners a much closer view of the chapel. So if you are not as adventurous and would like a better of the chapel, head down to Arkadi Fish Tavern to enjoy an unblocked view of the chapel as you eat.
A short drive from Georgioupolis will take you to Lake Kournas. Lake Kournas is the onlyAfter a long day, we wrapped up by visiting the Rethymnon Harbour. This is another ancient Greek town with some parts redeveloped into upmarket pubs and eateries. Catch sight of the buildings from the Renassiance era and beautiful churches. On summer nights, it really feels good to stroll by the harbour walk or check out small shops in the alley for some local products. If you are fretting what to take home as sourvenirs, the small bottles of Argan oil shampoo and conditioner is a good buy.
South-Central Crete
Crete has some of the nicest beaches in Greece. I would say this trip was really a beach-hopping-sun-tanning one. Preveli Beach, located on the south coast of Crete, is one of the hidden beaches in Crete. It is not as populated and accessible as Elafonisi Beach. The nearest point where the car could go was the carpark near the monastery and we walked about 45 mins down the mountain ridges. Preveli Beach has an interesting landscape, in which a river actually forms a lagoon at the opening to the sea. Flanked both sides by palm trees, the scene looked like a postcard, right in front of me. While the beach was beautiful, the climb back to civilisation almost killed me. The uphill mountain climb left my legs feeling like jelly, and had me re-evaluating if the beach was all that worth it, only to find out later that there is an alternate route to the beach by boat from Plakais. Hmph......
An eatery that is worth a mention in South Crete is a lush alfresco eatery operating next to a lake. Gefira Taverna is a simple café but serves very authentic Cretan cuisine. We ordered Sfougato (a traditional Cretan omelette), moussaka (Cretan potato-based dish), Greek coffee and beer. One thing I learnt in Greece is that you cannot (never!) order your food only when you are hungry because you probably cannot survive the wait. So, like a typical Greek eatery, it was a very idyllic wait. We sat and watched the geese waddling in the lake, sipping our drinks, taking pictures and just whiling the day away under the canopy of lush green trees. Bliss.
Another popular stop in South Crete is the Knossos. It is probably rated top on Tripadvisor. If you ask me, honestly I would say it is not worth visiting. Firstly, it charges the most exorbitant entrance fees and secondly, the area is so small that I didn't feel that I have learnt anything. Many of the exhibits were not original too. Comparing Knossos to Aptera, this was quite a let down.
To make up for the disappointing trip at the Knossos, we searched for a nice place to have dinner and we found Mythos Family Restaurant, Port Hersonissos. This is a family-run restaurant that serves authentic Greek food. I was impressed by their hospitality and warmth. The restaurant was packed when we arrived but we were quickly settled into a cosy corner seat. This place serves the best warm bread with their own homemade spread. Dinner was indeed splendid as we tucked into our tasty dishes with the host checking in with us occasionally.
Another popular stop in South Crete is the Knossos. It is probably rated top on Tripadvisor. If you ask me, honestly I would say it is not worth visiting. Firstly, it charges the most exorbitant entrance fees and secondly, the area is so small that I didn't feel that I have learnt anything. Many of the exhibits were not original too. Comparing Knossos to Aptera, this was quite a let down.
To make up for the disappointing trip at the Knossos, we searched for a nice place to have dinner and we found Mythos Family Restaurant, Port Hersonissos. This is a family-run restaurant that serves authentic Greek food. I was impressed by their hospitality and warmth. The restaurant was packed when we arrived but we were quickly settled into a cosy corner seat. This place serves the best warm bread with their own homemade spread. Dinner was indeed splendid as we tucked into our tasty dishes with the host checking in with us occasionally.
East Crete
The last area that I explored was the eastern part of Crete. Here, we visited Plaka, a seaside town (yes, again) which has a harbour that will take us to Spinalonga. Plaka has plenty of seafood restaurants and one should pick the restaurant which gives you the best views. Wind is strong here so be careful of your scarf and hat. We picked Delphini Taverna for drinks and Thalassa Restaurant for lunch. I would say the cuisine offered and prices are more or less the same.
The entire island of Crete will take about 4 days to cover at a leisurely pace, giving time to take walks, suntan, drink wine and enjoy the evenings. Cost of living is relatively low here with food and drinks very affordable. These are the accommodation that I stayed in Crete:
Stay tuned!
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